by Jillian on February 10, 2011
On Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, from now until March 31st, Hugo’s is serving their six course tasting menu for half the price, which is a damn good deal. We ventured into the icy night for our first experience with this type of dining and were in turns, surprised, amused, impressed and satisfied. No menus. No choices. No volition. The diner is at the mercy of the chef and his kitchen. It’s a relief to the indecisive diner and a delight for an adventurous eater. And I am mostly both. The experience was better than good. I took some notes and Malcolm a few surreptitious photos to share with you all. Follow along, if you will.
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To begin with, diminutive biscuits served with soft butter. Malcolm detected hints of Roqefort, but I was too enamored of their flaky layers to notice. On we go!
Amuse
Mortadella
and whipped honey
An inauspicious beginning, like pate cream rinse. But I soldiered on.
1st
“Shrimp and Grits”
sweet Maine shrimp – grit cake – bacon vinagrette
Those little, local shrimps are just so precious. This is exactly what I was anticipating: elevated, deconstructed, sophisto techniques that alter a classic comfort food. I could eat this every day and be very happy. Also, mache is an adorable green. Perfect first course, I’m henceforth totally on board.
2nd
Sunchoke Bisque
curried goat cheese mushroom melba – sunchoke slaw – porcini foam
A play on soup and sandwich, as waiter-described, but the most delicate version available. The light bisque and foam was fresh and briny and every taste brought new flavor. Alternating bites between the pristine sandwich, this was the most ladylike course, elegant picnic fare. I took tiny nibbles and made it last and last.
3rd
Miso Crusted Hake
sesame potato – sea weed – smoked dashi
Served in a deep bowl, into which I bowed my head like a perpetual motion drinking bird. The scallop-sized hake bite sat on a raft of viscous mashed potato in a sea of umami broth, where seaweed blithely floats nearby. Layers of textures and deep ocean flavor, we spooned and slurped in a most undecorous fashion.
4th
House Smoked Duck Breast
wheat berries – kumquat – cotechino duck tongue hash
The culmination course, fowl and rich. I am now a total slut for duck tongue. The farro was so toothsome and awesome, even Malcolm, great hater of strange grains, wanted to know all about it. I was starting to feel a little food woozy at this point, but it was worth it; I am a courtesan in the house of kumquat.
5th
Yeast Soup
fried croutons – rasin – walnut
Unfortunate name, divine dessert. Malcolm likened this to a Thai soup, for me it is best described as grown up cinammon toast crunch, my secret favorite cereal. The waiter poured cream over our bowls, creating heaven. The puffs filled and fruit reduction dissolved with each sweet sensation. Elation in my mouth.
6th
Toasted Ginger Bread
guiness semifreddo – candied fall fruit – mint
I was feeling extremely sated at this point, read: regretting my 4 o’clock Cheetos. A big, moist piece of cake a la mode, which I loved but couldn’t finish. A cozy ending to a meal that progressed in a stealthy, steady fashion. It has a certain drunken quality that I absolutely appreciated. But dinner must always come to an end.
With the (discounted) check arrived salted caramels, and without further adieu we were off.
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The restaurant was cozy and uncrowded, waiters and host attentive and accomodating, cocktails lovely. Our first time at Hugo’s was enjoyable if ephemeral.
I had no idea this was happening! That is an amazing deal. My first visit there was a touch rocky (through no fault of Hugo’s– we had some in our party who were not on board for that level of adventurousness in the food) so I’ve been excited to go back.
Also, “I am a courtesan in the house of kumquat” – ha!
I read about this in the paper in the Food Section — it sounds delicious, especially the toasted ginger bread. It must be fun for the cooks to play around and make you what’s most fun for them!