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Micucci’s Pizza

by Jillian Bedell on March 25, 2011

Have you eaten at Micucci’s Pizza? Rate it:
1 Star2 Stars3 Stars4 Stars5 Stars (14 votes, average: 4.79 out of 5)
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Micucci's Italian Grocery on Urbanspoon How can something called “The Slab” taste so sweet? Maybe it was the weather. I had never been in before and was unabashedly charmed by the India Street market. Perhaps I was hallucinating and high on premature spring temperatures, but I felt as if I had been there before, adding chick peas and Pellegrino to my basket. Up the stairs to the right, I found baker’s shelves stacked with freshly made imperfect squares, and without further ado, boxed one up, paid and hightailed it home. If you haven’t had Micucci’s pizza, we are living in parallel realities. I am different than I was before.

There is something so sublime about this pizza, unlike any I have had known. Thick as the name implies, but not at all heavy; the dough of the crust is soft and airy. Sauce that is fruitsome yet not cloying. And a cheese layer that inspires the best of us to employ a lighter hand when slinging mozarella. Each component has integrity and complements the whole. Each bite invites the one that follows, until the inevitable end. Also, in case you had not gleaned from the name, it is enormous. Our ruffian technique was to rip the giant slice in two and eat standing up in the kitchen.

My favorite pizza in the world resides, not on storied Wooster Street, but at Modern Apizza on State Street, a dirty stretch of road below I-91 in New Haven. My favorite pie in this good old town is white with spinach, garlic and lemon wedges, served on a gleaming dais above red-checked plastic cloth. It is nothing like The Slab. But now that The Slab exists my heart has been opened just a little wider. I am a better person for it: more accepting, compassionate, loving and chubbier. Thanks be to Micucci’s for making life in Portland more beautiful, but most of you already knew that. If only they had Foxon Park soda.


About the Author:

Jillian grew up in Connecticut, went to university in Boston, college in New Haven, did some post-grad soul searching in New York, exiled herself to Mexico, married her longtime sweetheart, and lived in a house on the ocean. She suspected Maine might be the perfect place to raise a family, so she came back home to New England two years ago. Now a mom to Violet Maeve and living in Rockland, where she hopes to settle for a good, long while, Jillian reads, writes, walks, and practices Nia, when not watching Malcolm photograph sandwiches.

{ 7 comments… read them below or add one }

Malcolm March 25, 2011 at 3:26 pm

I couldn’t resist adding my two cents to this. While I enjoyed Micucci’s very much, I found the sauce overly sweet, and the dough almost TOO pillowy and soft. It doesn’t fall strictly into my lineup of favorite pizzas in town, but when evaluated as its own animal, is still pretty spectacular.

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Marleen March 26, 2011 at 9:10 am

Exactly, Malcolm, the Slab should not be thought of as pizza. The gorgeous Luna Bread dough has no relationship to the normal pizza crust. The Slab for me is more like using great bread to scoop up the rest of my spaghetti sauce when the spaghetti is gone — and that’s just fine. The Slab is hands down my favorite food item in Portland, and its uniqueness (pillowy dough, oddly sweet sauce, minimalist cheese, generous olive oil) has become a defining feature of Portland for me (along with Soakology, but let’s not digress.) Next time you’re at Micucci’s take home the Luna Bread. Its pillowy goodness is great dipped in olive oil or used as a base for the meat and cheese from Micucci’s deli.

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Malcolm March 27, 2011 at 6:17 pm

That’s a very, very good way of decribing it, Marleen. It’s like that final swipe of bread through the remains of an excellent pasta course, except it’s not one last bite. It goes on and on, and it’s delicious.

(Also, Jillian is 100% in love with Soakology.)

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Moxie March 28, 2011 at 2:33 pm

omg, foxon park soda.

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Jillian March 28, 2011 at 5:01 pm

totally.

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Trish March 28, 2011 at 7:45 pm

That picture is …beautiful. How did Portland end up with so many fabulous restaurants?

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Malcolm March 29, 2011 at 1:00 pm

Thanks Trish! We really are blessed to have some amazing food in Portland.

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